Textiles, Cordage and Raw Fibre from 16-22 Coppergate

Item

Title
Textiles, Cordage and Raw Fibre from 16-22 Coppergate
list of authors
Penelope Walton Rogers
Is Part Of
The Archaeology of York [Series]
The Small Finds [Volume]
volume
17
issue
05
Publisher
Council for British Archaeology for York Archaeological Trust
Date Copyrighted
1989
Date Available
Metadata available on 4th August 2023
Full text available on 27th August 2025
Abstract
211 examples of raw fibre, cordage and wool, silk and linen textiles were recovered, 162 from Anglo-Scandinavian levels, 47 from medieval; and two unstratified. The presence of raw fibre, spinning and weaving implements and dye plants suggests that wool and linen cloth were being produced on the site.

The Anglo-Scandinavian finds include a sock in nålebinding technique, a piece of twill and a combed-wool binding, all of which betray a Scandinavian influence if not a Scandinavian
origin. The majority of the finds, however, have more in common with the textiles of Anglo-Saxon England and the Continent. Among the wool finds are some fine broken chevron twills, one of which has been dyed with lichen purple: these are probably traded goods, possibly imported from Frisia. A group of patterned linens, including a honeycomb weave, may originate in the Rhineland. However, the fabrics with a darned-in pile are likely to be a local product and the same may be true of some of the broken diamond weaves as well as the coarser tabbies and twills. A hairy type of wool, probably a local fleece, has been used for many of the coarser products.

Tabby weave silks appear to have been cut up and sewn on the site, probably for silk head-dresses. One complete example of a head-dress was found, which has parallels in another York site and in Lincoln and Dublin. Other silks include the remains of a narrow tablet-woven braid, ribbons dyed with madder and kermes and a small pouch-reliquary with an outer covering in compound twill.

The medieval textiles include 2/1 twills and fulled tabbies, both of which were prevalent in north-west Europe at this time; a striped piece, probably woven in Flanders; and remains of a possible piece of tapestry. The differences between these and the earlier group of textiles reflect the changes in the tools, techniques and organisation of the textile industry over the 9th–15th centuries.
Rights Holder
Penelope Walton Rogers ; The Anglo-Saxon Laboratory
Rights
Made available for non-commercial use by kind permission of the Estate of Penelope Walton-Rogers
Format
Portable Document Format (PDF)
Is Format Of
Paper publication
Identifier
GB2837-PUB-AY-17-5
oclcnum
22198868
isbn10
0906780799
isbn13
9780906780794
Type
Text
Language
English
page start
283
page end
454
number of pages
172

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